Retinoid
Retinol
INCI: Retinol·Studied at 0.1–1%·Strong evidence
The best-studied over-the-counter vitamin A derivative and the reference cosmetic retinoid, associated with the appearance of fine lines and a smoother, more even-looking surface. It is notoriously unstable in air and light.
Studied for
- ·The appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- ·The look of a smoother, more refined surface
- ·The appearance of an even tone
How it’s thought to work
Converted in skin to retinoic acid and studied for association with the appearance of renewed, better-organised-looking skin; it oxidises readily, so packaging matters.
Layering note
Often kept apart from: direct L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in the same layer.
Questions
- Is retinol the same as prescription retinoids?
- No. Retinol is a cosmetic-strength derivative that skin converts in steps to the active form; prescription retinoids are drugs. Retinol has a strong cosmetic record for the appearance of fine lines, but it is gentler and slower than a prescription product.